I have lived in Southern California for most of my life, so I already knew something about chiles, but I have to admit that I don't cook with them often, so I don't know much about how to prepare them or use them.
One aspect I feel the need to point out is the spelling. "Chili" is a stew-like dish that is typically tomato-based, often with beans and/or meat, with a dominant flavoring that comes from "chili powder." This is a spice blend, containing ingredients like onion powder, garlic powder, paprika, oregano, cumin, and some cayenne pepper for "heat." (Reference: Chili Powder) I like to put in sauteed onions, corn, and bump up the umami levels with cocoa powder.
A "chile" is the fruit of the plants in the Capsicum genus, which are well-known for their hot, spicy taste. Wikipedia says they are one of the oldest cultivated crops in America, having been part of the human diet since about 7,500 BC. They all originated in the New World, but they are grown worldwide today. Other names are "chili pepper", "chilli", "chile pepper", "chilli pepper." (Wikipedia, "Chili pepper") And, of course, "Chile" is the country located in South America.
For clarity, I will make it a habit to refer to the stew as "chili" and the fruit as "chile."
I needed to learn about how chiles were used during the Rancho period, so I turned to Jacqueline Higuera McMahan's book, California Rancho Cooking. (McMahan, Jacqueline Higuera. California Rancho Cooking. The Olive Press. Lake Hughes, CA. 1983)
 |
| ISBN 0-9612150-0-3 |
Ms. McMahan is a descendent of the Berryessa family, original settlers of the Santa Clara area in Northern California and considered a prominent Californio family. (Wikipedia, "Berryessa family of California") Her book contains recipes she learned from her Californio ancestors as well as stories of her time at the family rancho.
She gives this insight:
The original settlement of California was the unrivaled civilizing center for a coastline stretching a thousand miles. At the heart of the early cuisine were chiles, part of the culinary treasure borrowed from the ancient Indian culture of Mexico. They simply could not live without chiles and so chiles found their way into many dishes. (pg. 95)
Although chiles were the mainstay of this wilderness diet in Early California, foods advanced, … but the red chile puree remained a staple in all rancho kitchens to be kept on hand for making sauces, enchiladas, carne con chile, beef tamales and other traditional foods. (pg. 96)
She also provides guidance for selecting and preparing chiles.
Many of the traditional dishes require various types of the red, dried chiles and you must familiarize yourself with some of the most frequently used so you are not at the complete mercy of their whimsical identification in the different ethnic areas of the United States. (pg. 96)
I took excerpts from pages 97-98 to identify which types to purchase:
Distinguishing Types of Dried Red Chiles
California or Anaheim
Pale red with a smooth, shiny skin. … These long, pointed chiles, popularly known as “red chiles”, are the dried version of the green California or anaheim.
New Mexico
… similar to the Anaheim or California chile, except it hotter. It is difficult to distinguish between the California and New Mexico chile, but the New Mexico seems to have a more brittle, papery skin.
Ancho or Pasilla
Deep red-brown with a wrinkled, dusty appearance. These are the dried version of the poblano chiles, known in California as the pasilla chiles. Mild to medium picante. They may also be called pasilla anchos in some markets.
Japonés
These are ripened, dried serrano chiles. Very hot.
Pasilla Negro or Pasilla
About 6 inches long and 1 inch wide. These chiles are long, slender and almost black, giving the characteristic, almost black ochre color to traditional mole poblano of Mexico.
Mulato
This chile is the same shape as the pasilla ancho and it is difficult to tell them apart unless they are side by side, but the mulato is the darker brown, rather than the dark red of the pasilla ancho.
Considering I am a chile-cooking "newbie" and one whose taste buds prefer flavor over fire, I decided to start with California chile with possibly enhancing the heat levels by including some pasilla anchos, depending on what I can find in the stores. I know I can enjoy the green anaheim chiles without worrying about the heat, so my hope is this will be a good introductory chile.
No comments:
Post a Comment